
Drawing A Long Pose, Time in an Art Studio
I am often asked , “How long did it take you to draw that.” It depends on how large the drawing paper is and how many objects I had to draw. Mostly, if a model is hired, the time depends on how much time is booked with the model.
This drawing I created in three (3) three-hour sessions. The toned paper is 18hx16w. I used charcoal and white calk for highlights. This was drawn from a live model. He posed in 20 minute increments. The sessions were hosted by artist Gabriel Coke instagram@gabrielcoke and he created the setup at his studio in Saratoga, CA. The model is John Carrasco. instagram@john_a_carrasco
Pacing Myself and Daring to Dwell
First I have to decide if I sould draw the whole set up or focus on a section of the image. Before touching the toned paper it is a good idea to make a thumbnail of what you want to include. The pose was set up beautifully with the bread and cheese on one side and a candle and a book on the other. The model has a wonderful face and I really wanted to work on the portrait so I had to edit out some items to get his head the size I wanted to work on.

I happened to be standing at an easel on the bread and cheese side and had a better, closer, view of it. You will notice I drew a vertical line on the thumbnail because I was thinking if stopping the image by the hand was a good idea. Although the book and candle were fantastic props, I felt I was too far away to render them clearly and including them made his face smaller. I did the block image below afterwards to make sure what I was drawing would fit dimensionally on my paper.

Draw It Lightly and Slowly
Day 1. In long drawing, I take the first day to get the drawing correct. Typically the first line I put down has something wrong with it! Be willing to change up the drawing by drawing lightly on the paper. Hopefully you have gotten a good drawing paper that doesn’t keep the marks. I’m using a toned Strathmore drawing paper, that was ok.
As you can see I put a center line in the middle of his face, which is very helpful in getting the perspective right. On this drawing I got the head the size I wanted then compared lengths of things to where I put the facial features. For example, the length of the bridge of the nose to the triangle under the lip is the same size approximately to the length of the wrist to the start of the ring finger. Don’t get into too much detail on the face. There is still wiggle room to adjust a nose and eyes.
Other comparison tricks to use to get an accurate image besides using length:
1. Comparing angles by using your pencil as a linear guide. Hold your pencil at arms length and copy the angle you are looking at (lets say the arm closest to you) and see if the angle you drew is close to that.
2. Comparing negative spaces. I had to check if the space between the cutting board and arm were similar. (Certain things I don’t get too upset about if they are pretty close.)
3. Comparing intersections of masses. Where does the cup intersect with the bread, the cape and the sleeve.
4. Using a plumb line. Is the crystal ball all the way under his face or does one side line up with the farthest eye and center of the orb lines up with his shoulder
Just be ready to adjust and adjust on the first day before you put in any shading.

Summoning Shadows in Dark Places
Day 2. Hopefully, things worked out in the first session with getting the image pretty proportional to what I was looking at. I will find out the mistakes when I start shading. Why? Because shades have their shapes and sometimes I have caught myself realizing that I’m looking at a portion of shade that isn’t as big on the model as it is in my drawing. Darn it! What do I do? I make a decision to go with what I got or I adjust the image. If there is a lot of erasing, so what. It’s only paper. And if it’s really off and I want to start over… an art instructor I had said, “If you could draw it once, you can draw it again.” You have to choose to believe it.
I’m not going to get into all the types of shade that form on an image in this post. I’m going to be un-academic and let you look that up. Mostly I squint my eyes, start light with the charcoal and get darker and don’t shade in the light parts. Determine how much of my paper I want to have as the mid-tone. The model was heavily shaded from my angle.
By the end of Day 2 my goal is to get in the medium darks. If I had enough time, I got to cover all of them. If not, I can continue on day three. By this time there should be no more adjusting the drawing. I am committed to the lines that are put down.

Conjuring Light Lights and Dark Darks
Day 3. On the final day I am going to work on contrast. Since the figure is the central focal point, I decided to make the most of the contrast there. Remember to step away from the drawing throughout the whole process. This helps with catching things from drawing errors to adding more contrast.
The last thing I decided was to add the mist coming from the crystal ball. When drawing on toned paper, I like to work the background a little. The prop came with a solid white mist shape surrounding it, I decided to continue the mist behind the figure to pop out the mid-tones. In creating the mist I had to be careful to not make it too white, or it would flatten out the drawing. I wanted the whitest areas to be on the figure and props.
Hope this was helpful!
Happy Drawing!
Lidia
Follow me on Instagram@LidiaStudioArt